NONCHALANCE, GOOD HUMOR AND OLD-FASHIONED CHARM: WELCOME TO LISBON
This month, our adventurous (but not too adventurous) emissaries set off to explore Portugal's capital and report on their journey.
Arriving in Lisbon after a swift and uneventful flight, the first surprise awaits me as soon as I enter the city: the adorable little yellow streetcar you inevitably see in photos of the city is in fact a public transport system commonly used by its inhabitants, and not a tourist attraction! (Yes, I'm marvelling at how little.) Incidentally, it's also very handy for climbing up and down the cobbled streets, because Lisbon is all about going up and down. Enough platitudes (in Lisbon, a little flat never hurts), let's get down to the nitty-gritty with a few tips on how to get the most out of a Lisbon escapade.
1. START A DIET A YEAR EARLIER
Je sais, je sais : on n’est pas là pour réécrire le Lonely Planet, mais si vous êtes un peu comme moi, vous avez probablement tendance à rejeter en bloc tout ce qui vous paraît trop touristique. Je vous en conjure, faites une exception pour les « pasteis de nata » : oui, ils figurent dans tous les guides mais non, ce n’est pas une raison pour ne pas les goûter ! Nous recommandons tout particulièrement ceux de la pasteleria Manteigaria. L’intérieur n’est pas bien grand, mais en s’appuyant au comptoir pour déguster un pastei de nata accompagné d’un café (hmmm le pastei de nata avec le café <3), on peut observer comment le pâtissier les prépare (avec une pâte feuilletée faite maison, s’il vous plaît). Un délice.
We had already visited the north of Portugal, but apart from the seafood, we hadn't returned enchanted by the gastronomy. Lisbon, on the other hand, boasts a varied and well-cared-for culinary offering. If you want to enjoy good wine and excellent sardines in a cosy setting, while enjoying the show put on by the hilarious, spring-loaded owner, head for Grau Douro Tapas & Wine Bar. Reservations are recommended, as this is a well-known address in the neighborhood!
2. LEAVE WITH AN EMPTY SUITCASE AND A NICE NEST EGG
Portugal is one of the few countries in Europe to have preserved a (relatively) developed textile industry, and although little known abroad, Portuguese designers lack neither energy nor imagination. For proof, take a stroll down the rua Dom Pedro V: it's THE place to be for Lisbon's designers, in what is, after all, a very chic neighborhood. Another pleasant surprise: sustainable development and respect for the environment seem to have preoccupied Portuguese brands long before the current wave of greenwashing. The Lidija Kolovrat brand, in particular, caught our eye with its ultra-graphic XXXXXL cuts and flashy colors.
Outside the city, in Alcantara, the LX Factory space caught our eye. There's something about it that vaguely reminds me of Camden; in any case, this former industrial complex has been converted into a space housing a jumble of boutiques of all kinds, restaurants, bars, galleries...
Quick quiz:
a) Do you wear a beard and/or a shaggy bun on the sides?
b) You never part with your tote bag and buy all your books second-hand?
c) You spend the equivalent of three times your annual salary on clothes, but you'd rather shoot yourself in the foot than admit it?
If you've checked off one or more options, congratulations, you've met all the criteria for visiting LX Factory (yes, it's trendy, but in the Portuguese way: without too much pretension and with infectious good humor!).
3. DURING YOUR DIET, START HIKING AND RUNNING MARATHONS
Walking around Lisbon is one of the city's greatest pleasures: the atmosphere is one of relaxation and strolling, with a pace far less accelerated than in most other European capitals. The little cobbled streets are each more charming than the last, and as you climb up (which is unavoidable, but the good news is that afterwards you'll come back down), certain corners of the city (such as the rua Sao Tomé, in the Alfama district) offer superb views of the Tagus. Let's face it, I know it's the Tagus because I looked it up on Google Maps, otherwise I'd have mistaken it for the Atlantic.
4. THROW AWAY ALL YOUR CONVERSATION MANUALS
That's right: unlike us Frenchies, the people of Lisbon seem to have an innate talent for foreign languages, and most of them speak either French, English or both. Suffice to say, we didn't really make any progress in Portuguese, but one thing's for sure: Lisbon is well worth a visit, and we came back delighted. A city that seems particularly pleasant to live in, where the old-fashioned charm of little yellow streetcars and pretty cobbled streets goes hand in hand with the innovative energy of a European capital.
@ Clémentine Martin, our travel reporter 💚
